Cuz Sometimes You Just Need A Kota

Click, pound, pound.  There’s not a sound I enjoy more when first stepping foot in a new country. Another country. Another passport stamp.

This week I set foot in my 36^th country.

Traveling does something funny to you, after every click, pound, pound you silently rejoice, then think—“that’s not good enough, I’ve got to see more.” So while 36 may sound somewhat impressive. It’s not.  There’s always someone doing more “time”, doing something “cooler”, going somewhere “untouched”. Whatever you’re currently doing, it’s never enough. It’s just how this weird world of travelers works.  Who can travel farther, longer, deeper.  I set out writing this with feelings of inadequacy, but after a day or two in what most would describe as the Topeka of a state/country—there’s no reason to go, no reason to stay, and nothing to do—I’ve had a change of heart. Neither I, nor Kota Bahru, are inadequate. It is here that I’ve rediscovered what traveling was originally--and still should be--about. The everyday life.  The everyday experience. Not some façade put up to impress foreigners, or make you “feel” like you’re experiencing someone else’s culture.

No, it’s not the jungles of Papua New Guinea or some remote village in Africa or some exotic untouched island. No. It’s boring old Malaysia in the overdone, over-touristed part of the world—Southeast Asia.  True, in the normal sense of the word, there’s nothing to “do” here, but there is a whole lot to see. 

Everyday people living.  Living in a way that isn’t familiar to me. That is interesting.  It’s also relaxing, there’s no mapping out everything I “must see”—figuring out how I’ll get from one sight to the next and fit it all into the three short days I’m here.  Instead, it’s relaxing to know there’s nothing I have to see.  I’m free to roam. To get lost. To have no destination. In fact, my highlights thus far have been the grocery store, lunch at Pizza Hut, contributing my passport photo to a taxi driver’s book, being the only guest in my hotel that doesn’t have a reception desk or lobby, and oh—being the only tourist in the entire city.

No I didn’t discover an untouched paradise—I discovered everyday life. No frills. No fake smiles. Just life.

While here I’ve experienced life as an outsider.  The stares of someone (gasp) walking.  And by most standards here, walking around half naked (I have pants and a tank top on). I’ve changed my attitude towards the Chinese (they have the only restaurants in town that serve beer), and I’ve met two of the most sincere, nicest people on the face of this earth (Norma and Omar).

Is it trekking through the jungle or biking the Pan-American Highway? No, of course not, but it’s an adventure all of its own. A concrete jungle where I’m navigating Arabic and Chinese. Navigating a city not built for tourists (i.e. there are no cafes with Wifi – when I asked I was directed to an Internet Café with a million school children playing Grand Theft Auto). Navigating a city without a map (not having a hotel reception, means no map, which means each night I Google the area and write down “big roads” names of “notable buildings” and then use those as boundaries and markers). But on the flipside it makes it more like traveling used to be. I rely on the kindness of strangers for restaurant suggestions and directions.  Real life TripAdvisors! And throughout these past couple of days, I’ve had more people ask if I need help, ask where I’m from, and generally just genuinely smile at me than I have experienced in a long while. Here, I’m not seen as an intruder, an annoyance, or an easy target for quick money. I’m seen as a person taking part in their everyday, somewhat mundane, daily lives. Not special. Just accepted.

Kota, you may not be on many lists of “places to see”, but you’re on my list forever. You’ve put the meaning and feeling back into travel for me.  Real people, doing real things. Nothing fancy. Just living.

And for that I’m smiling for you today.  Smiling for everyday life.

More about Kota Bahru:

Kota Bharu was established by Sultan Muhammad II of Kelantan in 1844 as Kelantan's capital. Pantai Sabak, about 10 km from Kota Bharu, was the initial landing point of the Japanese invasion forces on 8 December 1941 in their Malayan campaign, when they successfully engaged the British in jungle warfare and ultimately captured Singapore.

Kota Bharu's population is 70% Muslim with the remainder consisting mainly of Buddhists and Christians. Social activities that do not contradict Islamic norms are allowed. Government offices and many stores are closed on Fridays and Saturdays, but the vibrant markets remain open except for Islamic prayer times. The Kota Bharu Municipal Council, the local government authority, discourages the use of "indecent attire" by female employees in retail outlets and restaurants. Those who are caught for "dressing indecently" may be fined up to RM 500. The definition of "indecent dressing" includes "body hugging outfits which show off the body, blouses which show the navel, see through blouses, mini-skirts and tight pants."

The Kelantanese culture is highly influenced by Thai culture because of its geographical proximity to Thailand. Kota Bharu features a tropical monsoon climate bordering on a tropical rainforest climate. Kota Bharu does not have a true dry season although the city experiences noticeably heavier rainfall from August through January. 

It’s currently raining.  I’ve broken every indecent exposure and inappropriate social activity rule (except for the navel showing blouse), and for some reason this SE Asian country has more cars than motorbikes on the roads and a scarcity of 7-11’s.

Kota thanks for keeping it real. See you again soon (sooner than I’d hoped I think).